Fashion History:Durags
Durag has several variant spellings, including do-rag, dew-rag, and doo-rag, which can all be spelt with a space instead of a hyphen, or with neither the hyphen nor a space, particularly as durag. According to one derivation, the word should be spelled dew-rag, because dew is a euphemism for perspiration. The New York Times, on the other hand, argues that the correct spelling of the term is durag. The close-fitting cloth cap, wrapped around the top of the head, is worn to promote the growth of long curly/kinky hair, waves, or locks in the hair; to preserve natural oils in the hair (similar to a bonnet); to prevent hair breakage, or to protect hair from shifting while sleeping. Durags are also prominent in African American communities as a cultural fashion statement.
It originated in the nineteenth century when slave women wore head wraps to keep their hair up and out of the way while working. During the Harlem Renaissance and the Great Depression of the 1930s, the durag was employed to keep hairstyles in place. However, throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the black pride movement, durags became a fashion statement among (black and Hispanic) males. The durag was first mentioned in the Akron Beacon Journal in 1966, when it was spelled “Do Rag” and was characterized as “a fabric band worn over the forehead as a sweatband to hold hair in place”. Companies such as So Many Waves were credited with producing their version of the durag, dubbed the “Tie-down” in the late 1970s. It became a vital tool for black males, who used it to refine their curl patterns or to keep their hairstyles in place while sleeping.
The durag was only used for practical purposes until the 1990s when it became a symbol of inner-city Black culture. The durag got increasingly flamboyant as the 2000s progressed. The transition of durags from a haircare item to a legit style accessory was most notably popularized by celebrities and influencers such as Jay-Z, A$AP Ferg, Nelly, Rapper Royce Da 5’9, Rihanna, Thundercat, Baby Keem, Travis Scott, and 50 Cent. The popularity of the waves hairstyle has also re-energized their use.
It has been trendy on the streets for years. However, due to the garment’s lack of public acceptance and stereotypes, some high schools in the United States have sought to outlaw the wearing of durags. The National Football League banned its players from wearing durags and bandanas beneath their helmets in 2001. After a high school in Pasadena, California, outlawed durags as part of a school dress-code regulation, the Black Student Union conducted a peaceful walk-out in 2019.
It is evident the durag inspired the fashion industry. Durags have spread well beyond the confines of beauty supply stores. They are regarded as luxury hair accessories these days, and individuals are seeking high-quality durags. Durags may be tailored to fit any style or attitude. However, to pull it off, you need a sense of swag that cannot be borrowed. It can be mundane, punk, or street couture marvels. Durags make a fashion statement, but there’s more to them than that. It is a piece of history that has been preserved, allowing the wearer to express themselves. It has an ever-changing impact and a legacy that is being passed down to future generations.
It’s the pinnacle of making something out of nothing. That is why it is so intriguing in the way it has come to embody the aesthetics of a sometimes-misunderstood counterculture. Its place in history cannot be forgotten.
By Keren M