Cultural Appropriation in Runway

Runway fashion shows have been a key aspect in the fashion industry. Luxury designers use this event to showcase their latest ready-to-wear collections. As fashion continues to evolve black models have dominated the runway. Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, Iman, and Tyra Banks. Have been well known to influence and pave the way for Joan Smalls, Winnie Harlow, Adut Akech, and Jordan Dunn. Black models are changing the standards in the fashion industry. They are gracing the covers of popular fashion publications, opening/closing runway shows, and becoming the faces of luxury jewelry brands, like Imaan Hammam for Tiffany&co. 

Designers around the world have taken notice of the "Black Girl Magic" that is so striking it is taking the fashion world by storm. Black models bring hair diversity that many designers find not only intriguing but inspiring. However, hairstyles on the runway are not often represented in a respectful way. Foreign and American luxury designers have been known for cultural appropriation in the African-American community. While neglecting to give proper acknowledgment to black culture.  

CHANEL 

Chanel’s Spring/Summer collection campaign for 2017. Featured a white model in Cornrows and Bantu knot hairstyle. This picture was shot by the late and long time creative director Karl Lagerfeld. The inconsiderate look was meant to be a combination of pop and punk fashion. His vision was not correctly executed. Karl Lagerfeld stood behind his creation and did not issue a public apology.  

MARC JACOBS

In Marc Jacobs’ 2015  Spring runway show. He showcased white models in colorful dreads. He was accused of cultural appropriation by his loyal followers. Jacobs did not immediately apologize. Instead, he responded in a way that was just as offensive. Citing black women do receive criticism for straightening their hair.  As his brand continued to receive negative feedback. He acknowledged his dreadlock look was culturally insensitive. 

COMME des GARÇONES

Earlier this year the Japanese brand Comme des Garçones were accused of cultural appropriation. In the men’s fall/winter 2020 collection. White models were seen wearing lace front cornrow wigs. The unusual look caused the brand to face scrutiny. From all platforms on social media. Many labeled the look as offensive and disrespectful. According to the brand the inspiration behind the hairstyle was an Egyptian(IN Africa) prince. Following the backlash, Comme des Garçones has since apologized. Stating,  it was not their intent to hurt or offend anyone. 

African Americans use hairstyles as exciting ways to express themselves. Each hairstyle has a strong history behind it. For years the African American community has faced discrimination in the real-world for their hair. The fashion industry is no different, it has the tendency not to cater to different black hair textures. Leaving black models to create their own hairstyles. However, fashion designers still choose to appropriate black culture. Disregarding the feelings they hurt and the backlash they receive. 

By: Sarah Fontanges

@ _Sarahfontanges